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His travels in the culinary arts began at the Restaurant and Hotel Institute of Varese (in the far north of Italy, near the Swiss Border and the Lakes district). He was already pointed toward a precocius passion for hand-made pasta and the tendency to invent desserts of dreams.
Very soon he began to produce dishes both exacting and with fantasy. He happily flowered in Milan in once-upon-a-time macrobiotic restaurant "La Non Libreria" (The Not a Library), while in secret he read "Les Miserables" and "Crime and Punishment". In his heart the two masterpieces blended well together, rather like the ingredients of his dessert "Riso all'Imperatrice" (The Empress' Rice) - see the menu for details.
One might ignore whether these secret readings brought him closer to the class and classicness of the cuisine of the Milanese luxury restaurant "Soti's" (where he was entremetier), or whether it was tha fault of Memories of Hadrian which inspired his move to the "Terrazza dell'Eden" in Rome (five-star deluxe hotel, restaurant with Micelin star, Executive Chef Enrico Derflingher, previosly personal chef to Prince Charles and Lady Diana), where Giuliano worked in all sections of the kitchen, and an entire year as pastry chef.
It is certain, however, that in the meantime the passion for flavourful combinations (aromatic herbs and vegetables, meat with fruit, fish with wine sauces), for the reslessness of vinegars, and for the luxury of oils of the highest quality, grew and developed.
In this way our Voyager, after tasting dishes at the best European restaurants (with a stopovers in Vermont: the New England countryside at its purest), cast his anchor in the story of the Asinocotto, historic restaurant whick he newly refreshed with a sensibility for flavors, colors, and the inspirations gleaned from the markets of Rome's historic center.
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And here Giuliano Brenna is ready to take care of "the psycology of taste" of each of us.
(Lidia Campagnano)
Up-and-coming young chef Giuliano Brenna has possibly Rome's most talked-about restaurant on his hands. The Trastevere district, where Asinocotto is situated, is one of the best parts of town to spend an evening and the two gay rainbow flags1 outside make finding the restaurant a breeze.
Inside, the menu is a carefully executed blend of the traditional and the new wave. Fish dishes feature in all of the first three courses as does some exquisite vegetarian fare (the courgette flowers are stuffed with a delicate cheese sauce) but this is neither a fish nor a vegetarian restaurant. The ravioli is stuffed with pheasant, chicken-livers and black truffle, and for the main course the exquisite duck breast is served in a mandarin and green-tea sauce - very enjoyable.
The only criticism of the restaurant is that the waiting staff doesn't offer enough guidance as you try to navigate the fancy menu.
Brenna is also an expert with desserts, something of a rarity in Rome. The chocolate mousse is deliriously light, while the semifreddo alla zabiaone (a mousse-like custard served chilled) will send you into ecstasy. The tortina al cioccolato (chocolate mousse cake) is equally exciting.
Last but not least, the wine list is extensive, lands on your table with a reassuring thud, and makes no compromises in quality for the sake of quantity.
Asinocotto doesn't operate a sittings system, so if you do manage to book a table (and you should book in advance) then it is yours for the evening. If you only have a chance to visit one restaurant in Rome, then this has to be the one.
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